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I WANT to Grow Garlic

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Growing Garlic
Garlic is Fun to Grow!

Download Planting Instructions

for Hardneck Garlic

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"The majority of the world’s garlic is grown in China and is sprayed with chemicals and bleached white with chlorine during importation quarantine processes. Not to mention the thousands of food miles clocked up traveling long distances in storage. The presence of multiple pathogens in lots of seed garlic from six states and mainland China suggests that common pathogens of garlic are frequently transmitted within and between countries by germplasm sale and exchange (USDA).

Let's Get Started

Imagine cracking open a bulb of garlic so fresh, its spicy, earthy aroma dances in the air, wrapping you in a warm, culinary hug. This isn’t just any garlic—it’s your garlic, grown with love in your own backyard. Growing garlic is like embarking on a delightful science experiment, one that rewards you with plump, flavorful cloves and a front-row seat to nature’s magic. Let’s dive into the joy of cultivating this pungent superstar, with a sprinkle of science and a whole lot of fun!

Why Grow Your Own?

Most garlic in grocery stores comes from far-flung corners of the world, like China, which produces about 80% of the global supply. To keep it looking pristine during its long journey—racking up thousands of food miles in refrigerated ships—it’s often sprayed with chemicals to prevent sprouting and bleached with chlorine during quarantine processes. Studies from the USDA have found that garlic seed stock from various regions can carry pathogens like Fusarium or Penicillium, sneaky microbes that can hitch a ride across borders. Why settle for that when you can grow your own chemical-free, pathogen-free garlic, bursting with flavor and personality?

Step 1: Choose Your Garlic Heroes

Skip the grocery store’s tired, treated cloves and head to a garden center or trusted online seed supplier for organic, high-quality garlic bulbs. Try varieties like:

Music: Bold and spicy, a crowd-pleaser.
Chesnok Red: Sweet and nutty, perfect for roasting.
Elephant Garlic: Massive cloves with a mild, crowd-wowing flavor.

Each bulb is a treasure chest of cloves, each one a tiny packet of potential, packed with allicin—the compound behind garlic’s signature zing and its antimicrobial superpowers.

Step 2: Prep Your Garden Stage

Find a sunny spot in your garden—garlic loves soaking up at least six hours of sunlight daily to fuel photosynthesis. Loosen the soil to about 12 inches deep, mixing in aged compost or organic matter. Compost boosts soil microbes, which team up with garlic’s roots to unlock nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, giving your plants a growth turbocharge.

Step 3: Plant with Love

Gently break apart your garlic bulb, keeping the papery skin on each clove. Plant them pointy-end-up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart—like tucking little garlic astronauts into their cozy soil beds. Water gently, then cover with a 4-6 inch layer of straw or shredded leaves, a natural blanket that insulates against winter chills and keeps weeds at bay.

Step 3a: Soak and Kill

Before planting your garlic cloves, give them a quick superhero-style bath in a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution (1 cup 3% H₂O₂ per gallon of water) or a 70% isopropyl alcohol dip for 5-10 minutes to zap lurking villains like mites, mold, and pathogens such as Fusarium. The hydrogen peroxide fizzes as it releases oxygen, obliterating microbes’ cell walls with oxidative fury, while alcohol dehydrates and denatures their proteins—think of it as a microscopic cleanup crew! Rinse, dry, and plant your sanitized cloves for a healthier, more robust garlic harvest.

Step 4: Watch the Magic Unfold

Your cloves will work underground, sending out roots and storing energy. Come spring, green shoots will pierce the soil, unfurling like tiny victory flags. Water consistently—about an inch per week—to support their growth. Garlic’s roots form a symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal fungi, which extend their reach to sip up water and nutrients.

Step 5: Snip the Scapes

Around early summer, curly, whimsical scapes—garlic’s flower stalks—will twirl upward. Snip these off to redirect energy to the bulb, and toss them in a stir-fry for a garlicky treat that tastes like spring itself.

Step 6: Harvest Your Treasure

By late summer, when the lower leaves turn golden-brown (usually when 3-4 leaves are dry), it’s harvest time! Gently dig up your bulbs with a garden fork, brush off the soil, and behold your homegrown treasures. Each bulb is packed with sulfur-rich compounds like alliin, which transforms into allicin when chopped, delivering that irresistible flavor.

Step 7: Cure and Celebrate

Braid your garlic into rustic garlands or hang them in a cool, dry spot to cure for 2-4 weeks, locking in their flavor. Then, savor your cloves in everything from creamy roasted garlic spreads to zesty sauces. Growing garlic is about connecting with the soil, marveling at nature’s chemistry, and savoring the fruits of your labor. So, grab your cloves, dig in, and join the garlic-growing revolution. You might just become the neighborhood’s Garlic Guru!

Garlic, a Plant Description

The name "garlic" comes from garleac, an old Anglo-Saxon word meaning "spear leek." Garlic is believed to be descended from Allium longicuspis, a wild strain of Asian garlic but its origins are still in question. Garlic and other members of the Alliaceae (Previously Amaryllidaceae) are native to central Asia and derive their characteristic flavor from the enzyme alliinase that acts on Sulphur compounds. All plants in this family are herbaceous, cool-season, biennial vegetables that are grown as annuals. Root systems are fibrous. Bulbs form from enlarged leaf bases called scales. Cold temperatures, combined with day length and soil temperature trigger bulb formation. Garlic (Allium sativum) is a cool-season hardy perennial made up of multiple cloves. Each clove is made up of one papery leaf and a second, thickened storage leaf which makes up most of the clove. Garlic leaves are solid, folded, and flattened. This bulbous plant grows vertically to an approximate height of 3 feet (1 meter). Garlic scapes can extend the height of this plant. Garlic rarely produces a hermaphrodite flower. The name Chicago is derived from the local Indian word chicagoua for the native garlic plant (not onion) Allium tricoccum.

Science has provided garlic growers and garlic connoisseurs, with definitive information about the confusing subject of garlic groups and varieties. In 2003, Dr. Joachim Keller of the Institute the Leibniz Institute for Plant Genetics and Crop Plant Research in Gatersleben Germany, and Dr. Gayle Volk of the USDA in Colorado, used science to perform DNA analyses of garlic. They classified garlic into ten distinct groups including:

Five hardneck varieties called Porcelain, Purple Stripe, Marbled Purple Stripe, Glazed Purple Stripe, and Rocambole.
Three varieties of "weakly bolting" hardnecks that can produce softnecks - Creole, Asiatic and Turban.
Two distinct softneck varieties; Artichoke and Silverskin.

Site Selection

Garlic plants require full sun and grow best in loose soils with organic matter. Garlic tends to grow poorly in heavy clay soils. Alliums are shallow-rooted and are sensitive to waterlogged conditions. Select a site that has full sun, well-drained soil with good moisture-holding capacity, minimum rocks along with a soil pH of around 7. The soil should be free of weeds before planting.

Test your Soil

Perform a soil test early on; This is an analysis of a soil sample to determine nutrient content, composition, and other characteristics such as the acidity or pH level. Getting a soil test can help take the guesswork out of fixing nutrient issues. There’s no need to spend money on fertilizers that aren’t necessary. Garlic normally needs extra nitrogen. Plants require 17 essential elements for growth: carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni), and zinc (Zn).

The soil test will also reveal the Percent Hydrogen or pH of your soil. pH: Between 6.0 and 7.5 is the ideal pH for growing garlic. The most common materials used to increase the pH of soil are compounds made from powdered limestone or lime. How do we decrease pH in soil? One of the best ways to increase acidity in soil is to add sulfur. Adding 1 to 3 ounces of ground rock sulfur per 1 square yard of soil will lower pH levels.

There are many reasons why a soil test is important. Here are a few of them:

To determine the nutrient levels in the soil. This information can help you to decide which fertilizers to use and how much of them to apply.
To identify any soil problems. For example, a soil test can show you if your soil is too acidic or alkaline.
To monitor the progress of your soil health. By taking soil tests regularly, you can see how your soil is responding to your management practices.
To make informed decisions about soil management. By knowing the nutrients and pH level of your soil, you can make decisions about how to fertilize, how to till, and what crops to grow.

Soil tests are an important part of good soil management. They can help you to improve the health and fertility of your soil, which can lead to better crops and a healthier environment. We use AGvise, an agronomy firm located in North Dakota to test our soils. Here is their website: https://www.agvise.com/services/soil-analysis/

Soil Preparation

Alliums with their relatively shallow root systems seem to grow well in loose, well-prepared soil. The soil should feel crumbly and loose. It should be free from stones and rocks. Soils that are devoid of organic matter should be amended with organic matter. Work rich, dark compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. The soil should be a minimum of 6-12 inches deep. If planting garlic in rows, keep an aisle on either side of the row to accommodate foot traffic and prevent the delicate roots from being compacted. If planting in raised beds, design the beds so you can plant, weed and access the garlic without having to reach too far.

Selecting Seed for Planting

For the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties often produce flower stalks and are usually well-adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic normally does not produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties. Hardneck garlic is categorized into Hardneck Subtypes. There are three main subtypes of hardneck garlic, including Porcelain, Purple Stripe, Marbled Purple Stripe, Glazed Purple Stripe, and Rocambole. In addition to the Hardneck Group, there are two other groups including Weakly Bolting Hardneck and Softneck.

Planting or replanting garlic from your own stock? Select the medium-sized or biggest and best cloves. If purchasing garlic seed, look for garlic sold specifically for planting. Supermarket-sold garlic may have been treated with a sprout inhibitor to prevent it from growing. Even worse, garlic imported from China may have been bleached and contain pathogens or mold. If you live in a warm climate such as California, growing softneck garlic may be the best option. If you live in a climate with cold winters and warm summers, consider growing hardneck garlic. Hardneck garlic produces a stiff stem that grows up through the center of the bulb. The stiff stem is made up of many individual leaf bases that resemble the growth rings of a tree. Compared to softneck varieties, they tend to have a sharper flavor, with more variation in flavor among the varieties. They're hardier too, making them a good choice for regions with very cold winters. Once harvested, the bulbs have a somewhat shorter shelf life than softneck varieties. Hardneck garlic tolerates cold winters and hot summers, so it's a fantastic plant for gardens in Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Washington, Oregon, North Dakota, South Dakota, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Connecticut, New England, Washington D.C., Maryland, Wisconsin, Michigan, New York, Maine, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Virginia, Indiana, Illinois, and Ohio. Gardeners and farmers that live below 40 degrees North Latitude also have had good success in growing garlic. Here are a few recommended cultivars: Chesnok Red, German Extra Hardy, Killarney Red, Spanish Roja, Music, Metechi, Rosewood, Georgian Crystal, Persian Star, Georgian Fire, Bogatyr.

Selecting seed garlic for planting is like picking out the perfect party guest: you want someone fun, flavorful, and guaranteed to liven up the garden patch! For hardneck garlic, that means ditching the supermarket shrink-wrapped cloves and going on a quest for bold, adventurous bulbs.

First, let's ditch the shy, softnecks. Hardnecks are the rockstars of the garlic world, thriving in colder climates and rocking those majestic, stiff necks come summer. Think of them as the rugged mountain climbers of the garlic family, unafraid of a little frost.

Now, the fun part: choosing your variety! Here are some rockstars to consider:

Music: This crowd-pleaser delivers big, juicy cloves bursting with garlicky goodness. Think stadium anthems with a spicy kick! ️
Chesnok Red: This beauty rocks a vibrant purple stripe, packing a complex, earthy flavor that'll blow your taste buds away. Think indie band with a soulful depth.
Elephant Garlic: Forget cloves, this behemoth boasts single, monstrous bulbs that'll have your neighbors green with envy. Think arena-filling headliner with a flavor to match!

But beyond the rockstar status, look for healthy bulbs: firm, dry, and free of blemishes. Choose plump cloves from the outer layers, like picking the juiciest berries from the bunch. And remember, size matters! Bigger cloves generally produce bigger bulbs, so treat yourself to the VIP section of the garlic basket. Go forth, garlic explorer, and rock your garden world!

Growing Yields

When determining crop yields, keep in mind that every clove from a hardneck variety produces a single plant with (approximately) 4-6 new cloves. These yields assume good growing conditions. Your yield will depend on growing conditions, garlic variety, how much you weed, clove size and soil condition. In particular, poorly draining soil will stunt garlic size. "Fluffy" soil offers less resistance to the growing bulb and cloves. If you plant a garlic variety that is unsuitable for your region, and you let weeds run rampant, it is probable you will have a poor crop. New growers may want to hedge their bets and plant more garlic. Acclimatization is the process in which an individual garlic clove copes and adjusts to the change in its environment. The factors of the environment include altitude, soil conditions, latitude, longitude, and an adjustment period. Acclimatization can take two or three years. Allow the individual garlic plants to remain to adjust their performance across a range of environmental conditions.

How Much Garlic Should I Buy?

Purchasing 1-5 pounds of seed garlic will yield enough garlic for the culinary needs of most families. Your seed will reproduce and yield between 4-10 times the amount that you plant. This quantitative number varies greatly between varieties. As an example, planting one pound of Music garlic may produce 5 pounds in return.

When to Plant Garlic?

Plant garlic in the fall about 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes. This allows the individual cloves to grow roots and become established before winter. These roots hold the garlic in place (like an anchor) and help prevent the bulb from being pushed up due to frost heaves.

Inspecting your Garlic Cloves Before Planting

Some of us are passionate about our garlic. We plant cloves in the fall and they magically grow into a beautiful plant in the following spring. However, several diseases can plague our garlic plants and the precious soil they grow in. Garlic is subject to several diseases that result in reduced yields, and in extreme cases, complete loss of the crop. Garlic is prone to several diseases. These include, but are not limited to: White Rot (Sclerotium cepivorum), Basal Rot (Fusarium culmorum), Botrytis Rot (Botrytis porri), Downy Mildew (Peronospora destructor), and Penicillium Decay (Penicillium hirsutum) which is also known as “blue mold”. Before planting, inspect the garlic (seed) cloves to determine if they are infected.

Garlic Disease -

What if, thinking here .... your hardneck garlic crop as a battalion of pungent warriors, their scapes curling like defiant flags, only to face an onslaught of microbial marauders that could turn your harvest into a soggy saga— but armed with science, you can turn the tide!

Take white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum), a sneaky soil-borne fungus whose sclerotia (hardy survival structures) lurk in the dirt for up to 20 years, causing yellowing leaves, wilting like a deflated balloon, and fluffy white mycelium hugging the bulb base, leading to premature plant death as it devours roots and blocks nutrient uptake; remedy this villain by practicing a rigorous 4-8 year crop rotation to starve out sclerotia, sourcing certified disease-free seed cloves, and applying biofungicides like Trichoderma species that parasitize the pathogen in a microbial wrestling match. Then there's Fusarium basal rot (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cepae), a heat-loving fungus thriving in warm, moist soils above 77°F (25°C), triggering basal plate decay with reddish-brown lesions, bulb disintegration into a mushy mess, and stunted growth as it clogs vascular tissues with toxins; watch for early yellowing and wilting, and counter it with solarization—covering soil with clear plastic to bake pathogens at 122°F (50°C) for weeks—or dipping cloves in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution to oxidize spores via reactive oxygen species. Don't overlook Botrytis neck rot (Botrytis allii), the gray mold maestro that exploits wounds or high humidity (above 80%), manifesting as water-soaked spots on necks and scapes, evolving into fuzzy gray sporulation that rots bulbs from the top down like a zombie apocalypse; spot the early lesions and fluffy growth, then boost air circulation with wider spacing (6-8 inches apart), prune scapes promptly, and deploy copper-based fungicides that disrupt fungal enzymes like laccase.

Downy mildew (Peronospora destructor), an oomycete imposter (not a true fungus but algae-like), strikes in cool, damp springs with pale green lesions on leaves turning purplish-gray and sporulating white downy fuzz underneath, halting photosynthesis and causing tip dieback; caused by wind-dispersed sporangia, remedy with resistant hardneck varieties like 'Music' or 'Chesnok Red', and preventive sulfur sprays that acidify leaf surfaces to inhibit germination. Rust (Puccinia allii), a biotrophic fungus needing living hosts, paints orange pustules on leaves that burst with urediniospores, reducing bulb size by up to 50% through impaired chlorophyll function; look for those telltale rusty spots, and thwart it with neem oil that smothers spores or by removing infected debris to break the autoecious life cycle. Finally, Penicillium decay (Penicillium hirsutum), a post-harvest blue-green mold feasting on damaged cloves in storage via airborne conidia, causes soft rot and off-odors from mycotoxins; prevent by curing bulbs at 68-77°F (20-25°C) with good ventilation to toughen skins, and store at 32-40°F (0-4°C) with low humidity to slow fungal metabolism. With these scientific shields— from oxidative bursts to ecological disruptions—your hardneck garlic will emerge victorious, plump and potent, ready to spice up your culinary quests like a flavor-packed phoenix rising from the soil!

Soaking Garlic Before Planting?

Imagine that you're a garlic clove, gearing up for an epic adventure in the garden. But before you brave the elements, you know the importance of a good pre-game prep. That's where soaking your little cloves comes in, and it's like a garlic spa day with double the benefit!

Before putting the cloves into the ground, we soak them in two "simple" solutions that provide two important benefits. If you’ve never done this before and have grown beautiful garlic, that is great news! I offer this suggestion to you, and ask that you be open-minded to this garden tip, as it can prevent a tragedy in your garlic patch, and, it has the potential to help you grow even more exceptional garlic!

Garlic Soaking 101: Soaking garlic provides two important benefits.

1. The first soak kills any live mold, mites or lingering stuff that can result in a failed crop

2. The second soak, potentially infuses nutrients into the seed garlic (garlic clove), for increased growth potential.

Soaking #1. The First Soak to Kill Bad Stuff

In this first soak, we embark on a microscopic battle against invisible foes lurking on your fresh seed garlic cloves—mites, molds, and diseases that could sabotage your garden dreams. To arm yourself, prepare a gentle yet potent solution: mix one cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) with a gallon of water, creating a diluted elixir that's safe for your cloves but lethal to pests. Submerge the separated cloves—pointy ends up, like tiny submarines diving into action—for about 15 minutes, watching as effervescent bubbles erupt like a fizzy party in a petri dish. This bubbling spectacle is pure chemistry at play: hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen gas (2H₂O₂ → 2H₂O + O₂), catalyzed by organic matter on the cloves, with the nascent oxygen acting as a fierce oxidizing agent. It generates free radicals that pierce cell membranes, denature proteins, and shred DNA in bacteria like Fusarium, fungi such as Penicillium, and even soft-bodied mites, causing their cellular structures to collapse in a chain reaction of destruction. Think of it as nature's own wound cleaner, similar to how H₂O₂ fizzes on a scraped knee to obliterate germs, but here it's your garlic getting a spa treatment that ensures healthier, disease-free growth—turning potential villains into vanquished vapor with a satisfying pop and sparkle!

Be Sure to Rince the Cloves Well After this First Soak. Now, with your sanitized cloves are almost ready to conquer the soil, let's delve into the broader scientific symphony of why this pre-planting ritual is a game-changer for garlic enthusiasts. Beyond the immediate kill zone, the hydrogen peroxide soak enhances root development by stimulating mild oxidative stress, which signals the plant's cells to ramp up antioxidant defenses like glutathione and catalase, fortifying them against future environmental assaults. Studies in plant pathology, such as those from the USDA, highlight how pathogens like bulb mites (Aceria tulipae) or white rot fungus (Sclerotium cepivorum) can decimate yields by up to 50%, but this oxidative blitz reduces transmission risks, promoting vigorous sprouting and larger bulbs. It's like giving your garlic a superhero serum—fun examples abound, from backyard growers reporting mite-free harvests to commercial farms using similar peroxides in hydroponics for pathogen control. As the bubbles subside, rinse the cloves in cool water, air-dry them briefly, and plant them in nutrient-rich soil; you'll witness not just growth, but a resilient garlic revolution, where science meets whimsy in every pungent, homegrown bite.

Soaking #2. Add Nutrients

In this second soak, we attempt to levate your garlic cloves from humble bulbs to turbocharged titans with a nutrient-infused pre-planting bath, a scientific spa session that could supercharge their growth potential and turn your garden into a verdant wonderland! Mix up a potent potion using organic liquid bat guano—nature's gold from ancient caves, teeming with beneficial microbes and a balanced NPK ratio (nitrogen for lush foliage, phosphorus for robust roots, and potassium for disease resistance)—diluted at about 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or opt for a synthetic boost like Miracle-Gro's water-soluble formula (typically 15-30-15 NPK) at half-strength to avoid overwhelming tender tissues. Submerge the cloves for 6-24 hours, allowing osmosis to draw in these essential elements: nitrogen fuels amino acid synthesis and chlorophyll production for photosynthetic prowess, phosphorus sparks ATP energy transfer to kickstart cell division and root elongation, while potassium regulates stomatal openings for efficient water uptake and enzyme activation. Watch as the solution subtly fizzes or clouds with microbial magic if using guano, reminiscent of a mad scientist's elixir bubbling in a beaker—think of it like doping your garlic with steroids from Batman's utility belt, where studies in agronomy (like those from the Journal of Plant Nutrition) show seed priming can boost germination rates by 20-30% and yield increases up to 15%, as seen in trials with alliums where nutrient-soaked cloves sprout faster, fend off stressors like drought, and produce plumper bulbs bursting with allicin. Fun bonus: backyard experiments have turned novice gardeners into guano gurus, reporting garlic heads so massive they could double as vampire-repelling disco balls—rinse off the excess, plant promptly, and prepare for a harvest that's not just bountiful, but scientifically spectacular!

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How to Plant Garlic?

Garlic is propagated vegetatively, by planting cloves saved from the previous crop. In other words, garlic grows from individual cloves broken off from a whole bulb. Each clove will multiply in the ground, forming a new bulb that consists of many cloves.

Prior to putting the cloves in the ground, break up the garlic heads to gain access to the individual cloves, leaving as much of the papery covering on each clove intact as possible. Select only the firmest, largest cloves to plant. Put the smaller cloves aside for now, and use them for cooking or baking. Discard cloves with bruises or those that are soft. These cloves are potential targets for fungal organisms in the soil. Handle the cloves gently. Don't let them fall onto a hard surface as the “basal plate”, or base, of the clove, may become damaged. The basil plate is the underlying stem of the future garlic plant. Any damage to the plate can result in a smaller garlic head or clove rot.

Plant cloves 3, 4, 5 inches deep, orienting them so the pointy side faces up. Plant cloves 4, 5 or 6 inches apart. Garlic is commonly planted in double or triple rows that are 2-3 feet apart. If planting in rows, leave plenty of space around each plant - enough space to walk or navigate any equipment you may use to weed, water and harvest. This helps prevent the soil around the growing bulb from getting compacted. Growing garlic from bulbils or seed is also a possibility. Some growers believe that growing garlic from garlic 'seeds' (which are small bulbs that develop at the tip of the garlic scape) can help the garlic adapt to your climate. Growing from bulbils may produce more robust garlic over time.

To Mulch or Not to Mulch?

To mulch or not to mulch your freshly planted garlic cloves? That’s the question, and science has a delightfully fun answer that’ll transform your garden into a cozy, thriving ecosystem! Laying down a 4-6 inch blanket of mulch over your newly tucked-in garlic—some growers of garlic think of it as a snug quilt for your subterranean superstars—offers a powerhouse of benefits, but it’s not without its quirks. Pros: Mulch, like straw, shredded leaves, grass clippings (pesticide-free), or wood chips, may act as a thermal insulator, stabilizing soil temperatures to protect cloves from winter’s icy grip. Mulch also suppresses weeds by blocking sunlight, preventing competitors from stealing nutrients, and retaining moisture, cutting irrigation needs by up to 30% per soil science research. If you plant garlic in a wet, rainy environment, think twice about using mulch.

Organic mulches like leaves or straw decompose, enriching the soil with carbon and feeding microbes that partner with garlic’s roots to unlock phosphorus and nitrogen. Cons: Too much mulch or overly wet materials (like fresh grass clippings) can trap excess moisture, inviting fungi like Sclerotium cepivorum (white rot), which can slash yields. Poorly aerated mulch might also harbor slugs, those sneaky garlic nibblers. Does it really insulate? Maybe?—think of mulch as a thermos for your soil, or a wet T-shirt? Some research from agronomy journals confirms it buffers temperature swings, keeping roots cozy like a garlic clove in a chef’s stew. For a fun twist, picture your garden as a garlic slumber party: straw’s the fluffy pillow, leaves are the crinkly blanket, grass clippings are the lightweight throw, and wood chips are the sturdy sleeping bag—each keeps the party thriving, but choose wisely to avoid a damp, moldy mess. Spread mulch evenly post-planting, and watch your garlic emerge in spring like green rockets, ready to conquer the culinary cosmos!

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What to Expect in the Spring

Roots will continue to grow in the spring and sprouts will emerge from the single clove. Green sprouts will metamorphose into a shoot and will continue growing in earnest as the snow melts and the soil temperature increases. To encourage good growth, add a small amount of high-nitrogen fertilizer that decomposes slowly, around each plant. Examples of such fertilizers include blood meal, fish meal, chicken manure (aged), horse manure (aged), and bat guano (aged). Gently work the nitrogen into the soil near each plant. During the spring and summer, keep the area around the garlic weeded. In late spring or early summer, hardneck garlic varieties produce a flower on a coiled scape. The flower stalks are made up of small bulbils. Unless you plan to start a new crop of garlic from bulbils/seed, plan to cut these curly stalks off (also known as garlic scapes). This will ensure that the energy the plant produces will go into the garlic bulb and not the clusters of bulbils. Eventually, the garlic plants stop producing new leaves and begin to form bulbs underground.

Pests and Diseases

Garlic has few problems with pests in the garden. Deer stay clear from this plant. Some gardeners consider garlic a natural pest repellent. Thought, growing garlic is not fool-proof. Even though garlic has very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies, keep an eye out for white rot. White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.

Garlic is susceptible to other diseases including (but are not limited to) : Basal Rot (Fusarium culmorum), White Rot (Sclerotium cepivorum), Downy Mildew (Peronospora destructor), Botrytis Rot (Botrytis porri) and Penicillium Decay (Penicillium hirsutum). Most of the major garlic diseases are soilborne, so proper site assessment and yearly rotations are crucial in maintaining a healthy garden of garlic. In addition to these diseases, garlic is also subject to damage by several genera of nematodes. Avoid planting infected sets; rotate crops to non-allium species for 3-4 years; plant in well-draining areas and do not overcrowd plants; destroy all infected crops.

Good prevention from diseases includes:

1. Rotation of garlic crops.
2. Planting only healthy and vigorous garlic cloves.
3. Roguing (culling) diseased- or stunted-looking plants as soon as symptoms appear.
4. Try not to leave garlic plant debris in the field: collect all refuse and put it into the garbage or even better burn it. Do not compost garlic debris.
5. Rotate crops using cover cropping: In particular, clover and mustard is a natural biofumigant that has been proven effective against nematodes, and helps build soil organic matter.

White rot is the most significant disease affecting allium production worldwide and has resurfaced in the New York garlic industry after a long period of eradication. Careful management can reduce inoculum, and because the pathogen is spread by seed and soil, it is also possible to prevent its spread into uninfested fields. White Rot is caused by Sclerotium cepivorum, an ascomycete fungus which is related to white mold fungi (Sclerotinia family). The pathogen is spread through mycelia and sclerotia movement in the soil and on seed garlic, but not as airborne spores. Only 1 sclerotium per 10 liters of soil is enough to cause disease, and 10-20 sclerotia will cause upwards of 90% infestation. Generally, these levels of sclerotia in the soil can be reached in 2-4 cropping cycles of alliums grown under favorable conditions (Crowe, 1980). One of the primary reasons this disease is of critical concern is that once sclerotia are in the soil, they can remain viable for up to 40 years (Schwartz and Mohan, 2008). White rot sclerotia will remain dormant in the soil until a suitable host (an allium) is detected through sulfur compounds secreted by the plant. Soil temperature is the greatest factor contributing to the speed of disease movement; at 48° F germination is very slow; optimum at 57- 64°F, and terminates at 70°F (Schwartz and Mohan, 2008). Ideal moisture levels for disease development are the same as for crop growth. White rot damage is generally detected first as yellowing or wilting of the foliage just prior to scape emergence, though the infestation started much earlier. The above-ground symptoms can correspond with underground symptoms including degradation of the roots and basal plate, formation of black sclerotia the size of poppy seeds, and briefly a white mycelial mat on the bulb extending up to the soil line. (source: Cornell University).

Weeding. Those Damn Weeds!

Garlic competes awfully with weeds, and weed pressure can decrease garlic yields by 10-40 percent. Formulate your weed-control plan before planting; This should include crop rotations, analysis of soil fertility, and reduction of weed seeds (through tilling).

What if our garlic cloves, are valiant knights, bravely battling for supremacy in a garden kingdom overrun by villainous weeds like prickly Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense), relentless quackgrass (Elymus repens), and sneaky lambsquarters (Chenopodium album). These botanical rogues don’t just crowd your garlic’s personal space—they’re nutrient thieves, siphoning away vital resources like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which can slash garlic yields by a whopping 10-40%, according to agronomic studies. To arm your garlic for victory, craft a weed-control strategy before planting, blending science with a dash of garden wizardry.

Till the soil to bury weed seeds beyond their germination depth (1-2 inches for most). This reduces the seed bank, but don’t overdo it—excessive tilling can awaken quackgrass rhizomes, which sprout like a botanical hydra. Research shows shallow tilling can cut weed emergence by 50%. Follow with a 4-6 inch layer of mulch (straw, shredded bark, or grass clippings) to block sunlight, slashing weed photosynthesis and biomass by up to 70%.

For a blazingly fun and effective weapon, unleash the power of weed flaming! Using a handheld propane torch (like those used in organic farming), direct brief bursts of flame (around 2,000°F) at young weeds before or just after planting garlic. The intense heat ruptures cell walls in weeds like thistle and lambsquarters through thermal shock, causing water loss and protein denaturation, killing them within hours—studies in weed science show flaming can reduce weed cover by 80-90% without chemicals. Timing is key: target weeds when they’re small (1-3 inches), as larger quackgrass may regrow from deep rhizomes. Flaming also sterilizes the soil surface, reducing weed seed viability by up to 70%, per agricultural research. Take care to avoid garlic cloves or emerging shoots, and use in dry conditions to prevent fire risks. Picture yourself as a garden dragon, torch in hand, turning weeds into crispy memories while your garlic thrives. Real-world growers, like organic farmers in Oregon, report near-total weed control with flaming, boosting garlic yields and earning bragging rights as weed-slaying legends. With this plan, your garlic becomes a culinary superhero, its roots fortified by science to outsmart weeds and produce plump, allicin-packed bulbs. In real-world wins, backyard growers using rotation, mulch, and flaming have turned weed-infested plots into garlic havens, harvesting bulbs so robust they could fend off vampires and chefs alike. Grab your soil test kit, wield your tiller and torch like a wizard’s staff, and let your garlic reign supreme in a weed-free kingdom!

Post-planting, blanket your garlic with mulch to insulate soil, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. Straw or bark creates a light-proof barrier, starving thistle and lambsquarters of energy. Organic mulch also decomposes, feeding soil microbes that partner with garlic’s roots to unlock phosphorus, boosting bulb growth. Picture your garden as a garlic fortress, with mulch as the moat keeping invaders at bay.

With this plan, your garlic becomes a culinary superhero, its roots fortified by science to outsmart weeds and produce plump, allicin-packed bulbs. In real-world wins, backyard growers using rotation and mulch have turned weed-infested plots into garlic havens, harvesting bulbs so robust they could fend off vampires and chefs alike. Grab your soil test kit, wield your tiller like a wizard’s staff, and let your garlic reign supreme in a weed-free kingdom!

Remove the Garlic Scape

Hardneck garlic produces a scape; A tube-like structure that curls onto itself. At the tip of the scape, a flower-like structure is created known as bulbils. These garlic scapes protrude upwards and are firm round flower stems. We recommend removing the scape. Why? Scapes are delicious and can be used just like garlic. Most importantly, by removing the scape, the garlic bulbs (and individual cloves) will be larger, as compared to a plant that was allowed to keep its scape. In other words, removing the scape from the garlic plant will deter the plant from sinking energy into the bulbils and instead divert the energy into the cloves. The garlic plant has a finite amount of energy.

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When and How to Harvest

In northern climates, harvest times (from the previous fall plantings) will range from late June to August. Around this time, stop watering. The garlic will store better if you allow the soil around the bulbs to dry out. Supplement with nitrogen after planting and a few times during the growing season. The clue is to look for yellowing foliage. Harvest when the bottom 3-4 leaves are yellow and drooping, but before they are completely dry. Before digging up your whole crop, sample a few bulbs first. Dig a bulb to see if the crop is ready. If pulled too early, the bulb wrapping will be thin and may disintegrate. Ideally, the plump cloves that make up the garlic head, will be covered with the white papery, garlic skin. If you can see the individual bulbs protruding from the head, you've waited too long to harvest, and the bulbs have split apart. If left in the ground too long, the exposed bulbs are more susceptible to disease and may not store long. To harvest, carefully dig the bulbs from the soil using a spade, garden fork or shovel. Lift the plants, carefully brush off the soil, and let them cure in a shady, dry spot for at least two weeks (depending on your local humidity). Lay the plants on a mesh material, allowing air to circulate around the plant, or hang bunches on a string. Make sure all sides get good air circulation. Be careful not to bruise the garlic or it won’t store well.

Cleaning

After the garlic has been cured, it is time to clean the garlic. Handle garlic heads gently because they bruise easily. After the garlic has dried and cured, any soil or dirt will brush off fairly easily. Gently brush off the excess dirt, but leave the outer skin layers intact. A paintbrush with stiff fibers can facilitate cleaning the heads. Using a heavy-duty clipper or PVC / tube cutter, trim the stalk to one (1) or two (2) inches and trim the roots to a quarter inch in length.

The History of (Eating) Growing Garlic

The Egyptians wrote about growing garlic for thousands of years ago. Garlic and Onion have been identified in drawings on Egyptian tombs dating back to 2800 B.C. Onions and garlic have been used as medicine, food, and as an aphrodisiac. Apparently, the builders of the pyramids lived mostly on onions and garlic. The laborers who built King Tut's tomb were so dependent on the bulb that they went on strike when their garlic rations were decreased. Garlic, hung over doors and near an entryway to a home was thought to have had powers to ward off evil spirits. Garlic provided strength and courage to Greek athletes and warriors. It was believed that juices from this pungent plant, when rubbed on entry doors and door frames, kept out blood-thirsty vampires. Garlic is known universally as "the stinking rose". This phrase or term reportedly goes way back to Greek and Roman times. The "stinking" part is obvious, but why "rose"? Garlic is an allium that is part of the Liliaceae family. Garlic is closer to a lily than a rose. So what is the origin of the name? Unfortunately, there is no clear answer to this question. How about genghis khan? Did he grow garlic?

For us, the health benefits of garlic have been touted for centuries. Today, researchers may have pinpointed at least one reason why. A new study shows red blood cells process compounds from digested garlic and turns them into the cell messenger hydrogen sulfide (H2S), which relaxes blood vessels and increases blood flow. Therefore, eating garlic may increase our natural supply of this vital chemical and play a role in reducing the risk of heart disease. Previous studies on garlic’s health effects have produced mixed results. For example, some studies of garlic have found few benefits, but others have been shown to lower the risk of heart disease. (Source: WebMD.com)

Garlic (Allium sativum L.), like other plants, has an exquisite defense system, composed of as many different components as the human immune system. In order to protect itself from insects and fungi, garlic produces allicin by enzymatic reaction when it is injured. Thus, allicin is mother nature’s insecticide. Since ancient times, garlic has been used worldwide, not only as a food, but also as medicine. As early as 3000 B.C., in ancient civilizations, including Egyptian, Phoenicians, Greek, Indian, Roman, Babylonian, Viking, and Chinese, garlic was used for the treatment of heart conditions, arthritis, pulmonary complaints, abdominal growths (particularly uterine), respiratory infections, skin disease, symptoms of aging, diarrhea, headache, bites, worms, wounds, ulcers, and tumors. The ancient Chinese consumed garlic to achieve longevity. In the days of the Pharaohns, during the building of Great Pyramid of Cheops at Gizeh, when the supplies of garlic ran out the workforce withdrew their labor. They knew well that garlic gave them strength and stamina. In the first century AD, Dioscorides, the chief physician of Roman army, prescribed garlic to his warriors and wrote: garlic cleans the arteries. The use of garlic to treat wounds surfaced repeatedly through the middle ages into
World War II, when garlic was used to treat the wounds of soldiers. (Source: Mohammad Shafiur Rahman. Taylor and Francis. Allicin and Other Functional Active Components in Garlic).

Garlic may have health benefits for humans, but don't feed your four-legged pet garlic. Toxic doses of garlic can cause damage to the red blood cells (making them more likely to rupture) leading to anemia. Signs of garlic poisoning can be delayed and not apparent for several days. While tiny amounts of these foods in some pets, especially dogs, may be safe, large amounts can be very toxic.