"My neighbor gave me a few heads of garlic. 

When should I plant the garlic?  Spring, Summer, or Fall?"   

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Two Types of Garlic

In simple terms, we can divide the garlic world into two groups, hardneck, and softneck.  Garlic is separated into these two categories based on numerous subtle factors including the presence or absence of a flowering stalk, the clove-formation pattern, and hardiness.   ​This article focuses on hardneck garlic.  

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Hardneck Garlic: The Tough, Frost-Loving Rockstar

Picture a garlic plant that’s basically the superhero of the garden patch. Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) struts its stuff with a flowering stem known as the garlic scape—a curly, green antenna reaching for the stars! This scape sprouts from the neck, a rigid, no-nonsense stem that pierces through the heart of the garlic bulb like a botanical backbone. It’s so tough, it earned the name hardneck—because this garlic doesn’t mess around.   The bulb itself? A glorious cluster of cloves, like nature’s version of a mandarin orange, each segment packed with flavor. These cloves are the garlic’s way of saying, “I’m ready to spice up your life!” Hardneck varieties are the cool kids of cold climates, thriving in frosty regions like the northern U.S. or anywhere winter likes to flex its icy muscles. Why? Because they’re winter-hardy and require vernalization—a fancy term for a cold snap (think months of chilling at fridge-like temps) that kickstarts root growth, sprouting, and bulb formation. It’s like garlic needs a winter vacation to get its creative juices flowing!   When hardnecks decide to show off, they produce an umbel—a funky, umbrella-shaped flower head packed with bulbils, tiny garlic clones that are basically mini-cloves. These bulbils are edible (pop ‘em in your stir-fry!) or plantable for future garlic greatness. Hardneck garlic is the flavor king, with varieties like ‘Music’, ‘Rosewood’, ‘Siberian’, ‘Metechi’, ‘Purple Glazer’, and ‘Spanish Roja’ stealing the culinary spotlight. Gardeners swear by their bold, punchy taste—perfect for those who want their dishes to sing!

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Softneck Garlic: The Braided Beauty of Warmer Climes

Now, meet softneck garlic (Allium sativum var. sativum), the chill, laid-back cousin of hardneck. No dramatic scapes here—just a soft, flexible stem that’s practically begging to be braided into gorgeous garlic garlands when dried. Softnecks are the go-to for gardeners in warm climates with mild winters and toasty summers. Think sunny Southern states or Mediterranean vibes—these garlics soak up the heat like a beach bum.

Like hardnecks, softnecks form bulbs with cloves, but they skip the flower-power umbel show. Their softer stems make them less rigid, more braidable, and perfect for decorative kitchen displays. Popular softneck varieties include ‘Nootka Rose’, ‘Viola Francese’, and ‘Inchelium Red’, each bringing its own subtle flair to the flavor party.

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​Hardneck Garlic Needs Exposure to Cold Temperatures

Hardneck garlic needs to be exposed to at a few months (3-4 months is ideal) of cold temperatures below 40-45 F to develop beautiful and robust bulbs.   This is called vernalization.  Why do plants need vernalization?  Hardneck garlic evolved in colder climates.  These plants take advantage of cold conditions to synchronize their growth and bulb development.   

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When to Plant Hardneck Garlic?

Hardneck garlic should be planted in the fall, about 6 weeks before the first frost. The cloves should be planted 2-3 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Hardneck garlic needs a cold winter in order to grow properly. If you live in a warm climate, you can try planting hardneck garlic in the spring, but it may not grow as well.  At GROeat Farm, we plant between October 1st and Halloween.  We are in USDA Hardiness Zone 4, and our elevation is 5,400 feet above sea level.

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Here are some tips for planting hardneck garlic:

• Choose a spot in your garden that gets full sun.

• Amend the soil with compost or manure.

• Plant the cloves with the pointed end up.

• Water the cloves well after planting.

• Mulch around the cloves to help retain moisture.

• Be patient! Hardneck garlic takes about 9 months to mature.

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Hardneck garlic is typically planted in the fall (between late September and November) and harvested in the following summer (between June and August). In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic cloves about 6 weeks before the ground freezing.  In Montana, we've planted hardneck garlic cloves as late as December.  In cold climates (northern hemisphere of the United States), hardneck garlic is typically planted in the fall.  

 

John Swenson, Garlic Seed Savers, recommends that growers monitor the soil temperature." When the soil temperature drops to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, start planting your garlic. Science has shown that to be the optimum temperature for the termination of roots from the stem of the garlic clove. For most of North America, that’s early October."   Plant hardneck garlic cloves before the ground freezes, as this will give the cloves time to establish a root structure.  Ideally, plant hardneck garlic about 4-6 weeks before the ground starts to freeze.  Contact your local extension service or nearest University or College to determine the average soil temperatures in your area.   Plant the cloves with the "pointy side up".  Space the cloves six+ inches apart in all directions and three to four inches deep.     Hardneck garlic bulbs (aka garlic heads) should be taken apart into separate cloves before planting.  

 

Popping the cloves is an easy way to separate the cloves.  WATCH POPPING GARLIC HERE.

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Planting Too Early? 

Planting hardneck garlic cloves too early is a common mistake.  By planting too early, there is a possibility the garlic may suffer from poor bulb development and smaller garlic cloves.  By planting cloves too early, the garlic clove will likely expend some of it's finite amount of energy to establish green shoots and leaves.   Garlic establishes it's root structures before it establishes the green shoot.  If the garlic cloves are planted too early, the green shoot can grow several inches.  If the winter conditions are exceptionally cold, the green shoots can be damaged.  These shoots can also act as a conduit during the winter, drawing water from the clove, and resulting in the death of the delicate clove.   By planting too early, the cloves may be exposed to warm soil conditions, which can reverse the vernalization process, resulting in smaller bulbs.  If your region receives abundant fall rains, the cloves could also develop mold and rot.   If the green shoots die back in the winter, the yield will be decreased from the theoretical possibility, as energy stored in the garlic clove will have been wasted.   When properly planted, hardneck garlic cloves (seed garlic) can withstand winter lows of -40°F.   If planted too early, too much tender top growth happens before winter.

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Planting Too Late?

If planted too late, the clove may not be able to establish roots and may "bubble up" to the surface of the soil.   Roots help anchor the clove in the soil and help prevent the clove from "rising up" due to frost heaves.  These exposed cloves may be more susceptible to winter damage and exposure to winter sun rays.  Ravens and Magpies have been observed playing with and flying off with cloves that "bubbled up" to the surface during the winter.    If planted too late, there will be inadequate root growth before the winter, and a lower survival rate as well as smaller bulbs.

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Planting Garlic in the Spring?  A Flavorful Experiment

Spring is typically the time of the year most gardeners plant vegetable seeds such as carrots, peas, and squash.  Springtime is not the best time of the year to plant garlic.   Let's dig in.

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Spring Garlic: Green Shoots or Bulb Bonanza?

Garlic in spring? It’s not the VIP season (that’s fall, more on that later), but you can still grow a crop that’ll make your taste buds do a happy dance. Spring-planted garlic offers two delicious paths:

1. Green Garlic (a.k.a. Spring Garlic): Think of this as garlic’s youthful, rebellious phase. These plants produce slender stalks with vibrant green leaves and tiny, tender bulbs—imagine scallions with a garlicy attitude! The soft leaves and stalks are delicate, bursting with mild, garlicky flavor perfect for salads, pestos, or stir-fries. Example: Toss chopped green garlic into a spring pea risotto for a fresh, zesty kick!

2. Bulb Garlic: If you’re dreaming of plump garlic bulbs, spring planting can work, but expect smaller bulbs than their fall-planted cousins. Why? Spring-planted garlic misses out on the long, cozy winter nap that supercharges bulb growth.

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Planting Green Garlic: A Quick and Tasty Experiment

To grow green garlic, you’ll need to channel your inner plant whisperer and get those cloves in the ground pronto. Here’s the science-driven plan:

• Timing: As soon as the soil is workable (not frozen or waterlogged), it’s go-time! Think early spring, when soil temperatures hit around 50°F (10°C). This ensures the cloves can start forming roots without shivering in frosty soil.

• Method: Grab your garlic cloves (hardneck or softneck work here) and plant them 2 inches deep (5 cm), 6 inches apart (15 cm), with the pointy end up—like little rockets ready to launch skyward. The pointy end is where the shoot emerges, driven by auxin hormones that guide growth upward (a process called geotropism).

• Harvest: Start snipping those tender shoots and leaves when they’re soft and vibrant, typically 6–8 weeks after planting. Example: Harvest when stalks are about 12–18 inches tall for peak tenderness, perfect for a green garlic chimichurri sauce!

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Bulb Garlic in Spring: A Race Against Time

Want bulbs from spring planting? It’s a bit like asking garlic to run a marathon with a late start. Spring-planted garlic needs extra time—about 2–3 weeks more than fall-planted garlic—to form bulbs, pushing harvest to late summer (think August or early September, depending on your region). For comparison, fall-planted hardneck garlic, which gets a head start with winter chilling, is ready by mid-summer (late July). Why the delay? Spring-planted garlic misses the natural vernalization period, which we’ll geek out about next!

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The Secret Sauce: Vernalization for Hardneck Heroes

Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) is the diva of the garlic world, demanding a cold treatment called vernalization to produce those juicy, plump bulbs. Vernalization is like garlic’s winter boot camp—it triggers biochemical changes that prep the plant for root development, sprouting, and bulb formation. Here’s the science:

• Why Cold Matters: Hardneck garlic needs 6–8 weeks at temperatures below 40°F (4°C) to activate genes like VERNALIZATION1 (VRN1), which regulate flowering and bulbing. Without this chilly period, bulbs stay small, like undercooked cupcakes.

• How to Vernalize: Missed the fall planting? No worries! Pop your hardneck garlic cloves into a brown paper bag and store them in a refrigerator at 35–45°F (2–7°C) for 2–3 months. Why a paper bag? It allows air circulation to prevent moisture buildup, reducing rot. Check weekly to ensure cloves stay firm—discard any softies, as they’re likely victims of fungal foes like Penicillium mold.

• Pro Tip: Keep garlic away from apples or pears in the fridge. These fruits emit ethylene gas, a plant hormone that can accelerate garlic decomposition by upregulating enzymes like pectinase. No one wants mushy cloves!

• Mold Alert: Spot a blue-green fuzz (Penicillium or Aspergillus) during vernalization? Don’t panic! Firm bulbs are still viable. The soil’s microbial activity and drainage will wick away excess moisture post-planting, zapping the mold. For extra protection, try a pre-soak in a 1:10 hydrogen peroxide solution (or 70% ethanol) for 10 minutes to nuke surface pathogens without harming the clove’s viability.

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Example Vernalization Setup

Imagine you’re in Seattle, planning to plant ‘Siberian’ hardneck garlic in March. In December, you place 50 cloves in a paper bag, tuck it into your fridge’s crisper drawer (set to 40°F), and check weekly. By late February, they’re ready to plant. You notice a few cloves with blue-green mold—toss the soft ones, soak the firm ones in a 1:10 hydrogen peroxide solution, and plant them 2 inches deep in well-drained soil. By August, you’re harvesting bulbs the size of golf balls!

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Spring vs. Fall: The Great Garlic Showdown

Why is fall the garlic gold standard? Fall-planted hardneck garlic gets a head start, using winter to develop robust root systems. The cold triggers epigenetic changes, like DNA methylation, that prime the plant for bulbing come spring. By the time summer rolls around, fall-planted garlic is ready to harvest (July in most regions), with bulbs that are larger and more complex in flavor due to higher sulfur compound levels (like allicin, the stuff that makes garlic garlicky!).

Spring-planted garlic, on the other hand, plays catch-up. Without natural vernalization, bulbs may be 30–50% smaller—think ping-pong balls instead of tennis balls. But with artificial vernalization, you can still score respectable bulbs, especially with hardneck varieties like ‘Music’ or ‘Spanish Roja’.

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Practical Tips for Spring Garlic Success

• Soil Prep: Garlic loves well-drained, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0. Add compost to boost organic matter, which feeds beneficial microbes like Bacillus species that help garlic fend off pathogens.

• Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy—think damp sponge, not swamp. Overwatering can lead to root rot from fungi like Fusarium.

• Variety Choice: For spring planting, try hardnecks like ‘Purple Glazer’ for bold flavor or softnecks like ‘Inchelium Red’ for easier storage. Softnecks don’t need vernalization, making them a low-fuss option for spring.

• Harvest Timing: For green garlic, harvest when shoots are tender (6–8 weeks). For bulbs, wait until 50% of the leaves yellow (late summer). Dig gently to avoid bruising—those bulbs are your flavor trophies!

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The Fun Factor: Garlic as a Science Experiment

Planting garlic in spring is like running a botanical lab in your backyard! You’re manipulating environmental cues (cold, soil, timing) to coax a plant into performing outside its comfort zone. Try planting a mix of hardneck and softneck varieties to compare growth rates, or experiment with vernalization durations (6 vs. 8 weeks) to see how bulb size changes. Record your results like a true scientist—maybe you’ll discover the next great garlic hack!

So, grab your cloves, chill them like a fine wine, and get planting. Spring garlic may be the underdog, but with a little science and a lot of love, you’ll be savoring the fruits (or bulbs) of your labor in no time!

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Tips for Southern Growers.  Prechilling!

If you live in a southern region of the United States (Florida, Georgia, Texas, etc..)  and you want to grow hardneck garlic, give your seed garlic the cold treatment prior to planting.  This cold treatment involves putting your garlic in a paper bag in a refrigerator.  The refrigerator should be dark and have a temperature of 35°F to 45°F. Never put garlic bulbs in the freezer. *** If you do have to share a refrigerator with any food, make sure that there are no apples or pears because they emit ethylene gas that may encourage bulbs to decompose.   Some bulbs may develop a blue-green mold during the process of pre-cooling.  A firm bulb is a viable bulb. Discard any that are soft after pre-cooling. Once planted, the soil wicks away excess moisture and the mold should disappear.  If you see mold, you may wish to "pre soak" the garlic in an alcohol or hydrogen peroxide solution.  Before removing the bulbs from refrigeration, prepare the planting site fully. Remove only the seed garlic needed for immediate planting. Do not remove them from the refrigerator and leave them out in the sun in advance of planting. They could lose their cool. It’s all right to prechill the bulbs a little longer than specified, but never shorter.      This "Simulated Vernalization" is a period of prechilling the bulbs. In horticultural zones 7 through 9, this means that the bulbs should be prechilled at a dark 35°F to 45°F for up to 16 weeks.   The longer vernalization period of three+ months has the potential to allow southern gardners to grow hardneck garlic successfully! 

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At GROeat Farm, we store seed garlic in a cool room between 42 - 50ºF with 60% humidity.   Purchase seed garlic as soon as it is available in September, and place the garlic in the refrigerator as soon as possible.  Mark your calendar to "alert you" to receive the garlic a few months later.  Plant after that.   If your southern region receives abundant rainfall, the planted garlic cloves may rot or mold.  Be sure the soil is not kept too moist.  Planting in raised beds with "fluffy", well-drained soil is a good option here.  

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Garlic’s Plea for a Soil Test: Unlocking the Secrets of Allium sativum with Science!

Garlic (Allium sativum) isn’t just a culinary superstar—it’s a soil science diva that demands the perfect stage to shine! Before you tuck those precious cloves into the earth, listen closely: your garlic is begging for a soil test. Why? Because the key to plump, flavorful bulbs lies in the chemistry of the dirt beneath your feet. Let’s dive into the zesty world of garlic growing with a focus on soil pH, nutrient balance, and why a soil test is your ticket to garlic greatness!

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Why a Soil Test? The Science of Garlic’s Happy Home

Garlic thrives in fluffy, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0—a sweet spot that ensures nutrient availability and root health. Think of soil as garlic’s kitchen: too acidic (pH < 6.0) or too alkaline (pH > 7.0), and nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium become locked away, leaving your garlic starving. A soil test is like a blood test for your garden—it reveals the pH, nutrient levels, and organic matter content, giving you a roadmap to create the perfect growing environment.

• pH Matters: Garlic loves a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). At this range, essential nutrients like nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are bioavailable, meaning garlic roots can slurp them up like a nutrient smoothie. Too acidic? Aluminum toxicity can stunt growth. Too alkaline? Iron and manganese deficiencies can yellow leaves. A soil test (available from local extension services or home kits) pinpoints pH with precision. Example: A Montana gardener tests their soil and finds a pH of 5.5. They add lime to raise it to 6.5, unlocking nutrients for robust garlic growth.

• Nutrient Snapshot: Garlic is a heavy feeder, craving a buffet of nutrients, especially nitrogen, to fuel its leafy growth and bulb development. A soil test reveals deficiencies—say, low potassium, which weakens bulbs, or insufficient organic matter, which limits microbial activity. With test results, you can tailor fertilizer applications, avoiding the guesswork that leads to over- or under-fertilization.

• Organic Matter Check: Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) adores fertile soil packed with organic matter (think compost or well-rotted manure). Organic matter boosts soil structure, retains moisture, and feeds beneficial microbes like Rhizobium that enhance nutrient uptake. A soil test quantifies organic matter content, ensuring your soil is a fluffy, nutrient-rich paradise.

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Planting Garlic: Timing and Soil Prep with a Scientific Twist

Garlic, especially hardneck varieties, thrives when planted in fall, about 1–2 weeks after the first killing frost (mid-September to November in cold climates like Montana). This timing allows cloves to establish roots before winter’s icy grip, leveraging vernalization (cold exposure below 40°F/4°C) to trigger biochemical pathways for bulbing. But before you plant, let’s prep that soil with soil test insights:

• Test First: Send a soil sample to a lab (e.g., your local university extension) or use a home kit to measure pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter. Example: A test showing pH 5.8 and low nitrogen prompts adding lime and a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) to hit the 6.0–7.0 pH sweet spot.

• Fluffy Soil: Garlic roots need loose, well-drained soil to spread out like a botanical yoga class. If your soil test indicates heavy clay, mix in compost or sand to improve drainage. Aim for a texture that feels like a crumbly chocolate cake, not a dense brick.

• No Fresh Manure: Fresh manure is a microbial minefield, harboring pathogens like E. coli and encouraging weeds. Instead, use composted manure (tested via your soil analysis to confirm nutrient contribution) to boost organic matter without risks.

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Feeding Garlic: Nitrogen and Nutrient Balance

Garlic’s moderate to high nitrogen demand fuels its lush foliage, which photosynthesizes sugars to fatten bulbs. A soil test guides precise feeding:

• Nitrogen Boost: If your soil test shows low nitrogen, apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (e.g., blood meal or 21-0-0) every two weeks in early spring until plants have four leaves. Example: A Vermont gardener’s soil test reveals nitrogen at 10 ppm (below the 20–30 ppm ideal for garlic). They apply 1 lb of blood meal per 100 sq ft, boosting leaf growth and bulb size.

• Don’t Overdo It: Over-fertilizing nitrogen leads to lush leaves but puny bulbs, as excess N delays bulbing by favoring vegetative growth. A soil test prevents this by showing exact nutrient levels, so you fertilize just right.

• Other Nutrients: Phosphorus supports root development, while potassium strengthens bulbs against stress. A soil test might reveal low potassium (e.g., 50 ppm vs. the ideal 100–150 ppm), prompting a potassium sulfate application.

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Spring Planting: A Soil-Tested Backup Plan

Missed the fall planting window? You can plant garlic in spring, but bulbs may be smaller—think golf balls instead of tennis balls—due to shorter growing time. For hardneck garlic, vernalization is critical (6–8 weeks at 35–45°F in a fridge, as described previously). A soil test is even more crucial here, as spring-planted garlic needs optimal conditions to catch up. Example: A California gardener tests their sandy soil, finding a pH of 7.5 and low organic matter. They add sulfur to lower pH to 6.8 and incorporate compost, ensuring spring-planted ‘Spanish Roja’ garlic thrives.

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Pests and Weeds: Soil Health Fights Back

Garlic isn’t a pest magnet, but onion maggots (Delia antiqua) can crash the party, laying eggs near roots. Healthy, well-drained soil (confirmed by your soil test) reduces maggot-friendly moisture. Weeds, however, are garlic’s nemesis, outcompeting young plants for nutrients. A soil test ensures nutrient-rich soil, giving garlic a head start against weeds like crabgrass. Example: A soil test showing high organic matter supports vigorous garlic growth, helping it outpace weeds before mulching seals the deal.

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The Fun Factor: Soil Testing as a Garlic Adventure

A soil test isn’t just science—it’s a treasure map to garlic glory! Imagine plunging your hands into cool, fluffy earth, knowing its pH is a perfect 6.5, its nitrogen levels are spot-on, and its organic matter is teeming with microbial life. By testing your soil, you’re not just planting garlic—you’re conducting a grand experiment, tailoring your garden to produce bulbs that burst with flavor. Try testing different garden beds or comparing hardneck varieties like ‘Music’ and ‘Siberian’ to see how soil tweaks impact bulb size. Your garlic plants will thank you with a standing ovation of pungent, delicious bulbs!

So, before you plant those cloves, grab a soil test kit or contact your local extension service. With pH, nutrients, and soil structure dialed in, your garlic will rocket from the ground, ready to spice up your culinary creations!

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