Imagine this: you saunter into your kitchen, harvest a plump garlic bulb - containing 6 huge cloves, then snip a few emerald shoots from your windowsill garlic-plant garden, and whip up a gourmet meal bursting with the pungent magic of homegrown garlic. Sounds fancy, right? But guess what? Growing your own garlic is easier than juggling bunnies – and ten times more rewarding.
Here's the drill: snag a pot (think cozy condo for your garlic), fill it with fluffy potting mix (think comfy mattress), and then break apart a head of garlic – not out of rage, but to gently separate the cloves (think pulling apart garlic bread, minus the melty cheese). Nestle the cloves pointy-side-up into the soil, tucking them in like sleepy chicks beneath a feathery blanket. Give them some space, keep them about 5 - 6 inches apart.
The fun part: water your little garlic condo regularly, watch those cloves become a new generation of garlic. First, green shoots peek out like curious kids, and bask in the sunshine they crave (because garlic, like us, is a sun-worshipper). A few months later, if all goes well you'll be harvesting plump garlic bulb, each containing many garlic cloves.
Within a few months, your tiny pot will be sprouting a jungle of garlicky goodness. If you plant hardneck garlic, snip off the scapes as soon as they appear (those curly cues that emerge in spring) to boost bulb growth, and soon, you'll be harvesting fist-sized nuggets of pure, pungent glory. Roast them whole, weave them into braids, or simply crush a clove into your next stir-fry – the possibilities are as endless as your newfound garlic love. Throw away that tiny, store-bought stuff and embrace the pot-dwelling garlic revolution! It's a low-maintenance, high-reward adventure that'll have you questioning why you ever settled for supermarket cloves again. Plus, homegrown garlic just tastes better – it whispers of sunshine, soil, and your own backyard alchemy. So, grab a pot, some cloves, and get ready to grow your own garlicky green haven!
Question: Can I Grow Garlic in Garden Containers or Pots?
Answer: Yes, you can grow garlic in garden containers or pots.
To produce a beautiful garlic crop, you will need to select and acquire the right type of garlic, the right garden containers or pots, and the proper growing medium. You'll need to plant garlic at the right time, place pots in the right place with full sunlight, and make sure the soil in the pots does not dry out. Avoid too much watering as garlic is prone to fungal root diseases, so it is important that the soil you plant the cloves in drains well. Don't be tempted to put regular garden soil in the containers. Instead, use a fluffy, organically-rich blend of well-decomposed soils. Garlic grows best in fluffy, well-drained soil high in organic matter. It does not grow well in compacted soils that are high in clay. Garlic requires direct light at least 6 hours/day; prefers 8 - 10 hours/day - during the growing season.
Here are a few reasons as to why some gardners grow garlic in garden containers or pots:
Space Limitations: Not everyone has sprawling land to dedicate to a garlic patch. Containers allow you to grow garlic in any sunny spot—on a balcony, a porch, or even a sunny windowsill.
Aesthetic Appeal: Garlic isn’t just useful; it’s also surprisingly beautiful! Its tall green shoots and globe-like flowers (if you let it bloom) add charm to gardens and patios.
Flexibility: Containers and pots can be moved to capture optimal sunlight or to avoid harsh weather conditions, giving you control over your garlic’s environment.
Pest Control: Growing garlic in pots minimizes exposure to soil-borne pests and diseases.
Garlic should be spaced about six inches apart and planted about 3 inches deep with the pointy side of the clove facing up.
Garlic is Fun to Grow: Growing your own garlic is a very fulfilling task. And, growing garlic is pretty easy. The varieties of garlic you can grow at home, in pots, are more flavorful than what you can find at the grocery store. In this article, I’m going to share thirteen (13) simple steps you can follow to grow hardneck garlic in pots - outside. The good news is that you can grow garlic in pots and a wide variety of containers.
STEP 1: Determine if Your Site has Adequate Sunlight
Don't plant garlic in shade. If you live on the north side of an apartment complex that is shaded most of the day, or if you have trees shading your property, you are out of luck. Garlic needs 8+ or more hours per day of direct sunlight.
STEP 2: Select and Purchase Garlic As Soon as Possible. Start Early!
Garlic is best planted in the fall. If you missed the fall planting, another option is to plant in early spring before April. If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 3, 4, 5, or 6, plan to plant the seed garlic (individual garlic cloves) just before Halloween. Contact a garlic farm in August, and determine which cultivars you want to grow at your location. Most garlic farmers harvest their crops in late July and early August. The seed garlic needs to cure for about three weeks before it is ready to be shipped to your location. You'll want to beat the rush and acquire your seed garlic as soon as possible. To get garlic cloves for planting, we highly recommend GroEat Farm in Montana. FYI they have many hardneck varieties available in September.
As tempting as it is, don’t use the white, bleached, tiny softneck - store-bought garlic to plant your own! Some commercially produced softneck garlic is treated with chemicals to inhibit sprouting. Instead, acquire hardneck garlic. In addition, garlic from the grocery store can also carry microscopic pests including viruses and parasites.
A good choice for seed garlic is Porcelain garlic. Porcelain garlic is a type of large, attractive hardneck garlic with plump cloves, usually four to seven to a bulb. Cloves are easy to peel, delicious to eat, and store longer than most types of garlic. Porcelain garlic includes Music, Rosewood, German Extra Hardy, Georgian Crystal, Georgian Fire, Leningrad, Polish, Romanian Red, and Montana Zemo.
Growing garlic successfully in garden containers or pots begins with choosing the right variety or varieties for where you live. If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 3,4,5 or 6, grow Hardneck Garlic. If you live in the southern tier of the United States, likey you live in USDA Hardiness Zone of 6 or above. Hardneck garlic typically does not grow well in Zones above 6, partly due to warmer soil and ambient air temperatures. Instead, contact other garlic growers in your area, or your local University Extension to see what grows best in your region. Likely, you will want to investigate growing softneck garlic. Softnecks tend to have a greater number of cloves, as they lack the hard stem in the center. They generally produce around 8 to 15 small cloves per bulb, with some bulbs yielding more than 20.
CALCULATOR: Use this simple calculation when acquiring seed garlic. Porcelain garlic typically has 5-7 individual cloves. In other words, one large Porcelain garlic bulb will likely give you 5-7 individual seeds to plant, resulting in 5-7 plants. Ideally, cloves should be planted four-six inches apart.
Seed Garlic (plump hardneck garlic cloves) Ready for Planting. GROeat Garlic Farm. Montana.
STEP 3: Select the Right Pot or Garden Container
Growing garlic is an art, but it’s also science—and the pot you choose can make or break your efforts. Too small? Disaster. No drainage? Welcome to Rotville, population: Your cloves. Here’s how to avoid those garlic-growing faux pas and make your pots work for you:
Size Matters
Garlic is picky about roommates, and it does need personal space. A pot should be at least 12 inches deep to accommodate garlic roots, which can stretch a surprising 8+ inches long. For a 5-gallon bucket, you can plant 2-3 cloves comfortably.
The Drainage Dilemma
No drainage holes? No garlic. Excess water = root rot, mold, and general misery. If you’re repurposing a food-grade 5-gallon bucket (points for upcycling!), drill several 1/4-inch+ holes in the bottom. Think of it as giving your garlic a well-ventilated condo.
Color Conundrum
Garlic loves sunlight but hates overheating. Dark-colored pots (black, navy, dark gray) absorb light and heat faster than your favorite car on a summer day. Soil temperatures above 85°F? Garlic taps out. Opt for light-colored pots to reflect heat and keep your cloves cool.
Plastic Containers: Affordable but Controversial
Plastic pots are cheap, lightweight, and retain moisture well—great for garlic, right? But here’s the kicker: not all plastics are created equal. Non-food-grade plastics can potentially leach chemicals into your soil and, by extension, your garlic. BPA-free, food-grade containers are safer options.
Pros of Plastic Containers
Affordable: Perfect for budget-friendly gardening.
Lightweight: Easy to move if you’re chasing the sun.
Moisture Retention: Helps keep soil damp but not soggy.
Cons of Plastic Containers
Heat Retention: In direct sunlight, they can get hot, stressing your garlic.
Chemical Concerns: Avoid using questionable plastics for edible plants. Stick to food-grade or BPA-free options.
Durability: Over time, UV rays can degrade plastic, turning your pot into a brittle mess.
Wooden Containers: Rustic Charm with a Catch
Wooden planters scream Pinterest-worthy gardening, but are they garlic-friendly? The answer is yes—if you do it right.
Pros of Wooden Containers
Aesthetics: They look beautiful in any garden.
Temperature Regulation: Wood is a natural insulator, helping keep soil temperatures stable.
Eco-Friendly: Made from renewable resources and biodegradable.
Cons of Wooden Containers
Rot Risk: Over time, wood exposed to constant moisture can decay. Use rot-resistant types like cedar or treat the wood with a food-safe sealant.
Weight: Wooden containers can be heavy to move, especially when filled with soil. Remember a gallon of water weighs about eight pounds.
A variety of containers that can be used as a vessel to grow hardneck garlic
STEP 4: Select the Right Soil
STEP 4: Select the Right Soil – Because Garlic is a Diva
Garlic is a bit of a soil snob—it wants light, fluffy soil that drains well but holds just the right amount of nutrients and moisture. Think of it as the Goldilocks of the gardening world: not too heavy, not too dry, not too soggy. PRO TIP: If your soil looks like a brick when dry or a swamp when wet, it’s time for an upgrade.
Here’s what your garlic dreams are made of: potting soil that’s a luxurious blend of organic matter, peat moss, and perlite or vermiculite (the confetti of the gardening world). This ensures proper aeration so your garlic can stretch out its roots like it's at a yoga retreat. Add fully decomposed compost or manure—emphasis on fully decomposed. Raw compost might sound like a great idea, but it’s basically a house party for pests and a nutrient thief during decomposition. Your garlic doesn’t deserve that drama.
If your soil is holding onto water like a bad relationship, add builder’s sand to loosen things up. This keeps your garlic roots from drowning in a soggy mess, which, let’s face it, is not the way to grow world-class bulbs. And please, for the love of cloves, don’t dig up soil from your yard or garden beds. It’s too dense, too heavy, and frankly, garlic hates it. Stick with potting soil designed for containers.
One of the biggest challenges of growing garlic in pots is that the soil is on its own—there’s no connection to the vast underground buffet of nutrients in a garden bed. That means you need to treat it like a high-maintenance guest. Refresh the soil each year if you’re growing garlic in containers season after season. Add vermiculite or coconut coir to improve water retention, but remember, more moisture retention means you’ll also need to improve drainage—this is all about balance, like making the perfect soufflé.
For example, if you overdo the water retention, you’ll turn your pot into a swamp that even garlic would call inhospitable. On the other hand, if you forget to boost drainage, you’ll be dealing with garlic drama faster than you can say "root rot." But get it right, and your garlic will reward you with bulbs so impressive they’ll make your garden neighbors weep with envy.
In short, garlic growing in pots is a fine art. Pick the right soil, treat it with care, and keep it as light and airy as garlic’s ego demands. The payoff? Flavors so rich and bold, you’ll forget all about the high-maintenance soil shenanigans.
A Variety of Potting Soils.
STEP 5: Plant Garlic Cloves (Seed Garlic)
In the Northern United States, October is a good time to plant garlic cloves. It should be done at least four weeks before the first frost of the season and must be done before the ground freezes. Every year is a little different. One common mistake is to plant garlic too early. What happens if you plant garlic too early? Garlic establishes a delicate root system before sending up a green shoot. Planted too early, the green shoot can rise several inches drawing precious energy from the clove, effectively dehydrating the clove and potentially killing it. The green shoots can also freeze during the winter. Likely, you will receive garlic bulbs from GroEat Garlic Farm. A few days before planting, carefully separate the individual cloves from the garlic head. Select the largest cloves for planting. Save any little cloves for your culinary dishes. Each planted clove will likely form a new garlic plant above ground and a new bulb or “head” just under the soil surface. If you received the seed garlic a month or so before planting, store the seed garlic in a dry, well-ventilated location, away from direct sun. Do not put the garlic in a plastic bag.
Should you soak garlic before planting? It is not mandatory that you soak garlic before planting. There are plenty of successful garlic growers that do not do this step and plant the cloves in the soil and have a wonderful garlic crop. Some growers will soak cloves in rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide for 3-5 minutes just prior to planting. The alcohol penetrates the clove covers and kills any mites inside. Another option is to soak cloves in 2% soap (not detergent) and 2% mineral oil prior to planting. Soak for 24 hours. This is effective against dry bulb mite (Aceria tulipae) and eriophyid mite that survives on cultivated Allium species, including onions.
Do not cram the cloves together. To form large heads, the clove's roots need plenty of space to grab nutrients.
Space the cloves about six (6) inches apart and gently push them into the soil 2" - 3" deep with the pointy end up. The spacing is important if you want the garlic to produce large, plump heads. If you are really pushed for space, try planting the garlic four (4) inches apart, about 3 inches deep. When winter settles in, the garlic enters a dormancy period that will supercharge its growth in the spring. Cold temperatures are key to forcing these garlic bulbs to go dormant.
Space Seed Garlic Six Inches Apart, Two - Three Inches Deep.
STEP 6: Cover With Mulch
After the garlic cloves have been planted, a good option is to cover the soil with mulch. Mulch helps control weeds, conserves moisture, and helps maintain consistent soil temperatures. Some gardeners claim that well-mulched soil can produce more garlic than a pot without mulch - due to its ability to reduce foliage and disease. Cover the top of the soil with a layer of straw or dead leaves. Don't use hay, as hay typically contains seeds. A good quality mulch should help to retain moisture and suppress weed growth. It can also add nutrients slowly over time.
STEP 7: Prepare the Pot or Container for Winter.
If you experience a very frigid winter (USDA Hardiness Zones 3 and 4), you’ll want to insulate the pot by wrapping it in insulation or piling up leaves or straw around it. Some growers will bring the planted pots in an unheated garage, shop, shed or outbuilding. Where you choose to place your pots or containers is important. Another option is to find a sheltered location next to your house to overwinter your pot. Your garlic will not grow in the winter months so sunshine is not important. The cloves will need some moisture to stay alive. Some dry soils can wick moisture from the cloves. Check the soil every few weeks in the winter to assure it is moist and water if not.
STEP 8: Insulate the Pots?
In USDA Hardiness Zones 3, 4, and 5, where winter temperatures can plummet well below freezing, insulating the outside of garden pots may be a good idea - for successfully growing garlic in containers. Garlic cloves need consistent cold exposure to properly vernalize (a process required for bulb development), but extreme cold can freeze the soil solid, potentiall killing the cloves. Insulating materials such as burlap, bubble wrap, or straw can be wrapped around the pots to buffer against temperature fluctuations. Alternatively, gardeners can use foam or heavy-duty fabric covers specifically designed for outdoor pots. For added protection, grouping pots together or placing them against a south-facing wall can create a microclimate, shielding them from the harshest winds. This approach ensures the soil maintains enough warmth to keep the garlic dormant but alive through winter, setting the stage for robust growth in spring.
STEP 9: In Spring, Move the Pot to the Desired Location.
As spring emerges and temperatures begin to rise, reposition the garlic pot in a sunny location to maximize light exposure, which is crucial for the development of healthy foliage and robust bulbs. Maintain consistent watering practices, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged, and apply a balanced fertilizer or a nitrogen-rich amendment as needed to support early leaf growth and bulb formation.
Transplanting Garlic in Spring: A Scientific PerspectiveGarlic (Allium sativum) does not respond well to transplanting once it has established a root system, primarily due to the disruption of the delicate root structure. By spring, the garlic clove will have developed extensive roots that anchor it firmly in the soil and are actively absorbing nutrients. However, it will likely have minimal or no green growth above the soil. Transplanting at this stage can stress the plant, impair nutrient uptake, and hinder bulb development, as garlic relies on an uninterrupted growth cycle for optimal yield. For best results, ensure garlic is planted in its final location in the fall to allow it to establish roots without the need for relocation.
STEP 10: In the Spring and Summer, Check Soil Moisture Often.
Garden pots, unlike their terrestrial counterparts in raised beds or traditional gardens, are notorious for their insatiable thirst, often losing moisture faster than a sun-soaked towel at a summer barbecue. This accelerated evaporation occurs because pots have less soil volume to retain moisture and are more exposed to the elements on all sides. To keep your garlic plants hydrated and happy, water as needed to maintain a consistently moist—though not swampy—environment. A good rule of thumb is to water every 3–5 days, adjusting for weather conditions like heat waves or rainy spells. Importantly, reduce watering two weeks before harvesting to allow the bulbs to cure and develop their papery skins properly.
For the scientifically curious or the overly cautious, a soil moisture meter can be a game-changer. Think of it as the stethoscope for your soil, providing immediate diagnostics on moisture levels. Most moisture meters feature a single probe that you insert into the soil, where it measures hydration with impressive precision (and zero guesswork). If you're still watering with a “finger test,” consider upgrading to this handy tool—your garlic will thank you with better growth, and you’ll sleep soundly knowing your plants aren’t secretly parched or drowning. Get a moisture meter, and let science help your garlic thrive!
STEP 11: Remove the Garlic Scape:
Hardneck garlic plants (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) are unique in producing garlic scapes—slender, curly, tubular flower stalks that emerge from the center of the plant. These scapes are not just culinary treasures but also play a critical role in garlic development. Removing the scape is essential for optimizing bulb growth, as the plant redirects its energy from reproductive efforts (forming bulbils) back to bulb development underground. Studies have shown that scape removal can increase bulb size by as much as 30%, underscoring the importance of this practice.
If left unremoved, the scape matures into an umbel, which houses small, hard-coated bulbils. These bulbils are a miniature version of garlic cloves, viable for planting, although they require 2–3 years to mature into full-sized bulbs. This reproductive strategy is fascinating from a botanical perspective, offering the garlic plant an alternative to clonal propagation via its underground bulb.
When harvesting scapes, timing is critical. Snip them as soon as they develop their characteristic pigtail curl in early summer, typically when they are tender and flavorful. Use sterilized scissors or shears to prevent potential infections. Harvested scapes are highly versatile—they can be refrigerated for up to several weeks, frozen for long-term storage, or pickled for year-round enjoyment.
Beyond bulb optimization and culinary uses, scape removal also minimizes stress on the plant, helping to maintain overall vigor. If the scape is left too long before removal, the plant may expend significant resources attempting to flower, potentially reducing bulb quality and size. Incorporating this practice into your garlic-growing routine ensures you reap the largest, healthiest bulbs while enjoying the added bonus of garlic scapes in the kitchen.
Removing the Garlic Scape at GroEat Farm.
STEP 12: Harvest at the Right Time. Don't Wait Too Long.
Unfortunately, some first-time garlic growers mistakenly believe that leaving their garlic in the soil for as long as possible will result in colossal, award-winning bulbs that could rival a prize-winning pumpkin at the county fair. Let me assure you, garlic does not work that way. Timing the harvest is critical, and leaving bulbs in the ground too long can lead to disaster. Think of it as hosting a dinner party: If your guests (the garlic) stay too long, things start to fall apart. The cloves separate, the bulb becomes unwrapped like a soggy burrito, and its storage life goes from months to mere weeks.
If you harvest too early, the bulbs will be disappointingly small, like opening a bag of chips only to find it’s 80% air. Hardneck garlic hits its sweet spot for harvesting when the lower three leaves have browned and wilted, signaling the bulb’s maturity. This is garlic’s way of politely saying, “I’m ready now, please harvest me before things get weird.”
But how do you know for sure? There’s no shame in doing a bit of detective work. Gently dig up a bulb to inspect. If the cloves are snugly filling out their papery wrappers, it’s go-time. If they’re still scrawny and underdressed, give them a little more time.
When you’re ready to harvest, avoid the rookie mistake of yanking garlic from the soil like it’s a stubborn weed—this often results in a snapped stem and a heartbroken gardener. Instead, use a trowel (yes, delicately) to assist with extraction. Think of yourself as an archeologist unearthing ancient treasure. Handle your garlic with care, and it will reward you with long-lasting, flavorful bulbs that store beautifully. Or don’t—and risk bulbs that look like they’ve been through a rough breakup. The choice is yours.
STEP 13: Cure and Dry Garlic for Long-Term Storage
Proper curing is essential for hardneck garlic, ensuring the bulbs develop the dry, papery skins that protect them during storage and preserve their flavor and quality. Begin by placing the freshly harvested garlic in a well-ventilated location, shielded from direct sunlight, which can cause the bulbs to overheat or sunburn, leading to discoloration and reduced storage life. Ideal curing setups include a drying rack, a window screen propped on cinder blocks, or a horizontal rope for hanging multiple plants. Whatever the method, prioritize ventilation—good air circulation is non-negotiable to prevent moisture buildup and uneven drying, which could invite mold or decay.
The curing process typically takes about three weeks, depending on humidity and temperature. In lower humidity and warm but not overly hot conditions (around 70–80°F or 21–27°C), garlic cures efficiently. You’ll know it’s ready when the outer layers of the bulb are crisp and papery, and the cut stem has hardened completely. Any lingering moisture inside the bulb can compromise its storage potential, so patience here pays off.
Once cured, store the garlic in a cool, dry, dark place to maximize its shelf life. A pantry or kitchen cupboard works well if the room stays consistently cool, or consider a cellar or basement if your living space tends to be warm. Avoid the temptation of plastic bags or sealed containers—garlic needs to breathe, and without airflow, it will quickly mold or rot. Instead, opt for a wire basket, mesh bag, or even a breathable wooden crate. Proper curing and storage can keep your garlic fresh for 6–9 months, ensuring you enjoy its pungent goodness until the next growing season.
Hardneck Garlic Curing in August
Conclusion: Growing Garlic in Pots: A Small Space, Big Flavor Adventure
You don’t need sprawling garden beds or a backyard that looks like a farmer's paradise to grow top-notch hardneck garlic—just a little creativity, a sturdy pot (or two+), and a sprinkle of science. Growing garlic in containers can be a delightful challenge, thanks to its long growing season and picky water preferences, but with the right steps, your garlic dreams are entirely achievable.
First, start with a container that’s at least 12+ inches deep (more if you’re feeling ambitious) and has excellent drainage—no garlic wants soggy feet. Invest in quality seed garlic (we recommend the robust selection at GroEat.com) and plant the cloves in the fall, between September and December. Separate the cloves, plant them pointy-side up 2–3 inches deep and 6 inches apart, and nestle them into rich, organic, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Garlic is a sun worshiper, so position your pot where it will bask in at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily during spring and summer.
Keep the soil moist but not a soggy mess; garlic appreciates Goldilocks-level watering—just right. It’s a heavy feeder, so toss in some nitrogen (but don’t go overboard—nobody likes a nitrogen hangover). Weeds? Evict them early before they throw a rave and take over your pot. While garlic is mostly pest-resistant, keep an eye out for onion maggots, the garlic-loving rebels of the insect world.
Harvest time is your garlic's grand finale. When the bottom three leaves turn yellow or brown and flop downward like they’ve had a long day, it’s time to dig in (gently, with a trowel, like an archaeologist unearthing treasure). Depending on the variety and your climate, this triumphant moment will likely come mid-to-late July.
Growing garlic in pots combines science, a dash of art, and a touch of patience, proving you can cultivate bold flavors in small spaces. With a little care and attention, your container-grown garlic will be the talk of the table—impressively delicious, space-efficient, and undeniably homegrown.
Bob and Jane Move into the City. (a short story)
Bob and Jane had been living on their 5-acre farm for decades, basking in the fresh air, mud, and the occasional smell of freshly mowed lawn. Then one day, in a fit of "we're getting old, we need to downsize" panic, they sold the farm and moved into a milti-story condo in the city. Bob still swears it was a mistake. "I miss the weeds," he says, sitting on their plush condo couch, looking out at the urban skyline like a man who’s lost his purpose. “I could pick them all day long, and no one judged me. Now I’m just... weeding my thoughts.”
Jane, was more of an optimist, and tried to see the bright side. "At least we can see the stars at night!" she chirped, standing on the balcony like it was a mountain top. Bob glanced up. “Those aren’t stars, Jane. That’s just city smog with a little sparkle.”
A couple months later, Bob had decided that peeing off the porch wasn’t quite the same in the city. "I miss my lawn mower," he muttered one day as they sipped their overpriced coffees, sitting in their IKEA chairs. "Used to drive that thing around like it was a chariot. Now? I just drive around looking for parking spots."
But then, a grand idea hit them like a lightning bolt of desperation: they would grow garlic.
Garlic. In pots. “We can grow garlic in pots, Bob,” Jane said, her eyes wide with hope. Bob, who had not picked a weed in six months, thought about it for a second. “Garlic... in garden containers and pots. Do you know how much dirt is involved? And... watering? I can’t even remember the last time I watered a plant without feeling like I needed a life coach.”
They bought some wooden containers and a bunch of garlic from the fancy grocery store. Jane declared they were going to plant
hardneck garlic, which sounded fancy and sophisticated, much like their new condo’s faux-modern décor. “Hardneck garlic... huh. We grew it on our farm, maybe we can do it here too?” Bob asked, eyeing the cloves suspiciously.
They filled the garden containers with lots with soil—so much soil, it looked like a large toddler's sandbox. "You know what, Jane? This feels right," Bob said, wiping a bead of sweat from his forehead. "This is the life. No weeds. No lawn mower. Just... dirt. And garlic."
"Exactly!" Jane beamed, as if they were embarking on a journey to plant garlic in space. Bob, however, had a few doubts. The last time he tried gardening, he’d planted mint in the wrong season and ended up with a jungle of confusion. “Are you sure this garlic will survive up here so high on the top level of our unit?” he asked, glancing at the gloomy window. "It’s kind of like the garlic's trying to make a statement."
“Trust me, Bob. Garlic will love it here,” Jane said, placing the cloves pointy-side up like little soldiers ready to conquer the world. “We’ll just place them right here in the sunniest spot on the balcony. How could anything go wrong?”
Weeks passed. The garlic didn’t seem to care about the sunlight, but Jane kept watering it as if the garlic might one day throw a fit if it didn’t get enough attention. Bob, on the other hand, was losing faith. “We planted this stuff in fall, right? It’s spring, and it’s still not sprouting like my hopes and dreams.”
But then, one fateful day, those garlic plants did something that made Bob stop staring at his phone for just a minute. Green shoots appeared. “By gum, it’s alive!” he exclaimed, pointing at the tiny sprouts as if they were his long-lost children returning home.
Of course, the joy didn’t last long. “I can’t tell if it’s garlic or weeds, Jane. They look the same to me!” Bob's vision was getting bad - maybe cataracts? Bob squinted at the pot like he was deciphering an ancient map. “Are these garlic or impostors?” "Trust me, Bob, they're garlic. We’re on the right track," Jane reassured him. "We just have to let them grow, then... snip the scapes and watch it grow into something beautiful." Bob, skeptical as ever, leaned in. "I’m pretty sure this garlic is not going to survive in this city smog." As the months went by, the garlic continued to grow, albeit slowly. Bob and Jane were no longer in a race with time, but rather, it felt like they were in a slow-motion film about growing old and growing garlic. “This is taking longer than our last retirement plan,” Bob grumbled, his knees creaking as he bent down to inspect the wooden garden containers.
Finally, after what felt like a century of anticipation and too many garlic-related jokes to count, it was time. The garlic bulbs had bloomed into glorious, plump heads. “It’s finally time, Jane! We have a harvest! We did it!”
Bob hollered, kneeling next to the garden container triumphantly, his knees sounding like the rusty hinges of an old barn door - like he had just won the Nobel Prize in Garlic Farming.
Jane grinned, brushing a speck of dirt off her sleeve. “Now we’re ready for garlic bread! Or garlic butter! Or, you know, garlic everything!” Jane looked at him, her eyes filled with joy. “
"Maybe," let’s enjoy our garlic."
And so they did.
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GroEat Farm. Bozeman, Montana